WAINAO N°19 - THE MAN THE DEATH AND THE OCEAN
WHY NOW? BECAUSE that man, duke, has made a name in surfing world. He basically brought surf in usa....however. we can be sure that none of his accolades were more important that what he did that night.
Most of people struggle to stand on a board when there's the shadow of a wind....Just imagine the level of mastering needed to literrally SAVE people from drowning during a storm..
THAT KIND OF EXPLOIT ARE SO INCREDIBLE THAT IF THERE WERE NOT WITNESSES AND PROOFS, WE WOULD NOT BELIEVE IT. DUKE WAS DEFINITELY SOMEONE SPECIAL.
“ somebody said that riding waves was like knocking on heaven’s door. On a stormy night, a young hawaian did not only knock….he took 8 people back with him. “
“ If you were to meet DEATH one day, in the middle of the ocean...you'd rather have an angel who can really ride.“